Summary
Just for grins, here's a description of the way I adjusted the tow in on my buddies 05 Precedent. There may be simpler/better methods, but this seemed to work for me.
Bkgnd: a friend of mine bought a "rode hard and put away wet" Precedent off Craig's List. I found it had bad bearings on the driver's side front + a badly scored front axle due to the inner bearing being locked up and turning on the axle + it had badly worn bushings/pins. I rebuilt all of this so it is all nice and tight; however, the toe in on the passenger side was way off….even to the naked eye.
HOW TO ADJUST TOE-IN. CLUB CAR PRECEDENT AS EXAMPLE
First, I positioned a piece of heavy fish line (a chalk line would do fine…maybe better) down the centerline of the cart. I used a centered hole in the golf bag area and one at the front tow ftg to do this. I just secured the line to a couple of heavy boxes and positioned them until I had the line over the front and rear center marks I had placed on my garage floor.
Mark the position of the straight edge using the tri square as an offset tool (where you see the pencil point) and then measure the distance to the cart CL string (or your chalk line mark).
Now. mark the offset at the fwd end of the straight edge and measure to the CL. The difference in the fore and aft readings is the amt of toe-out or toe-in over the length of the straight edge.
To adjust the toe-in, remove the tie-rod end nut. You will probably have to hold the ball with water pump pliers (channel locks to you young dudes) to prevent it from turning. Also, you may have to give the fitting a "rap" with the nut partially installed to pop it out vertically. Then loosen the adjustment lock nut (hold a backup with a second wrench at the wrench flat on the tie rod end proper.) Then make one turn and reinstall. NOTE: After re-installing, be sure to re-center the steering wheel. Re-measure the toe-in (you will be surprised how much one turn affects the measurement ).
A dealer would probably do this while you or I are getting set up, but if we took that approach, we wouldn't need/want to be a part of this great group, would we? ☻ The "good guy" at the "cart barn/maintenance center" here where I live tells me there is an "eccentric" at the main spring attachment area that can be used to adjust camber. Mine looks normal to me and it now drives well (and straight down the road…..with "no hands") so I will just observe tire wear and adjust the camber if'/when necessary.
Just for grins, here's a description of the way I adjusted the tow in on my buddies 05 Precedent. There may be simpler/better methods, but this seemed to work for me.
Bkgnd: a friend of mine bought a "rode hard and put away wet" Precedent off Craig's List. I found it had bad bearings on the driver's side front + a badly scored front axle due to the inner bearing being locked up and turning on the axle + it had badly worn bushings/pins. I rebuilt all of this so it is all nice and tight; however, the toe in on the passenger side was way off….even to the naked eye.
HOW TO ADJUST TOE-IN. CLUB CAR PRECEDENT AS EXAMPLE
First, I positioned a piece of heavy fish line (a chalk line would do fine…maybe better) down the centerline of the cart. I used a centered hole in the golf bag area and one at the front tow ftg to do this. I just secured the line to a couple of heavy boxes and positioned them until I had the line over the front and rear center marks I had placed on my garage floor.
Mark the position of the straight edge using the tri square as an offset tool (where you see the pencil point) and then measure the distance to the cart CL string (or your chalk line mark).
Now. mark the offset at the fwd end of the straight edge and measure to the CL. The difference in the fore and aft readings is the amt of toe-out or toe-in over the length of the straight edge.
To adjust the toe-in, remove the tie-rod end nut. You will probably have to hold the ball with water pump pliers (channel locks to you young dudes) to prevent it from turning. Also, you may have to give the fitting a "rap" with the nut partially installed to pop it out vertically. Then loosen the adjustment lock nut (hold a backup with a second wrench at the wrench flat on the tie rod end proper.) Then make one turn and reinstall. NOTE: After re-installing, be sure to re-center the steering wheel. Re-measure the toe-in (you will be surprised how much one turn affects the measurement ).
A dealer would probably do this while you or I are getting set up, but if we took that approach, we wouldn't need/want to be a part of this great group, would we? ☻ The "good guy" at the "cart barn/maintenance center" here where I live tells me there is an "eccentric" at the main spring attachment area that can be used to adjust camber. Mine looks normal to me and it now drives well (and straight down the road…..with "no hands") so I will just observe tire wear and adjust the camber if'/when necessary.
